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I presently own a 1989 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc-Z Electronic Tuned Port Injected 305cid. engine. The engine has the L98/Corvette Camshaft and the 305 cylinder heads. Engine oil cooler, stock ram air style intake and 4 wheel disc brakes. The transmission is a borg warner T-5 manual world class transmission, mated to a steel drive shaft and finally to a 9 bolt 7.75" borg warner 3.45 clutch type limited slip differential. The car is a false dual exhaust and has stock exhaust manifolds. The car currently has 36,347.7 miles and at the crankshaft is rated to be pushing 230 horsepower @ 4600rpm and 300 foot pounds of torque @ 3200rpm. It has the original 16" rims with Goodyear 245/50 HR-16 tires. This camaro is "pure stock" and somewhat rare.

Though I am unhappy with its performance, I have in my possesion a 350 sbc crate motor. It is carbuerated and has cast iron cylinder heads. I plan to build this motor. My current plans are to bore the lifter valleys from 0.843" to 0.875". Have Competition Camshafts grind a hydralic roller camshaft with a .51 intake lift / .45 exhaust lift and 224, 230 duration with ford lobe separation. Bore the the cylinders to 0.060 over. Have Ross Racing Pistons cut forged and balanced aluminum pistons with a 11.5:1 compression ratio on 64cc GM fast burn vortech cylinder heads. Titanium valves, 3/8 screw type rocker studs, with 1.6:1 Lunati Solid Aluminum Rocker Arms. And the largest valve springs the camshaft and lifters can accomodate. The crankshaft would be that of Lunati's sledgehammer line with standard firing order, and stock 350sbc travel. And forged and balanced H beam connecting rods. Mallory ignition, TPIS/Edelbrock intake baseplate/ lower manifold for a TPI engine, AS&M Polished Intake Runners, Bored, Ported and Polished Plenum, and a Holley 52mm twin throttlebody.

Can anyone pick out any problems in my ideas or waste of time parts and suggest better ones. If anyone can also take a guess @ estimated horsepower and torque I would be thankful. I am only 17 and I am doing this as my sole hobby on a grocery store salary. Laugh all you want. This the type of conversation that drives my significant other crazy. Thank you for your time and any suggestions. Ryan

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Hello Ryan, :wink2:

Hard to say what the final figures would be with all that done to the motor, but I think it's safe to say that it would provide you with a level of power that would require you to modify other parts of the car, namely tires and suspension to maintain the cars balance - i.e. power/control ratio. For one thing, your tranny, the Borg-Warner T5 WC is rated to handle 300lb.ft. of torque which is what your 305 is making stock, so you can see how the modified crate would be too much for it, not to mention other parts such as drive shaft and differential possibly as well. Planting a highly modified motor into an otherwise stock Camaro would destroy some things I'm pretty sure. And bringing everything to spec of course drives up the cost of the project. And you're on a pretty tight budget.

Whatever you do with the crate motor, make sure you know what you're doing, or have it done by someone who does. Especially in regards to grinding, boring, and porting and such. But I would reccomend hanging on to the 350, and just slowly go about modding other parts of the Camaro, starting with some mild work on the 305. And then follow that up with wheels and tires etc. Little by little is good to remember.

I completely agree, but i dont like how an old "legend" (or at least holds the reputation of one) gets put away by a four door, i mean most 80's vettes are slower than my car, mostly due to condition but they are geared better and have more torque, i dont mind it when i get taken by the stangs and true muscle cars, but when a car with half of my engine is puttin a beatin me, sti's, evos ie(the four door wonder) and im just pullin away from civics in the mid to low 14's. Its like a kick to the stomach.

I have my classic, i have my beater(lincoln), i might see if i can find a wrecked car and build it from there. My paychex just got cut in half so my project is gettin killed from the start.

Small, cheap, and has 8 cylinders. It has to be 8?

A pickup, no no forget that. How about a 5.0 Mustang, like a late 80's early 90's. Great for modding, and lots of options for that car. How cheap are we talking?

i was going to say if you want a cheap sleeper get a civic :wink:

but if it has to have an 8....hmm....that means it has to be dumestic.

i think a grand national would be sick to mod....but thats a bit of a compromise. i wouldnt care though. modded those things are fast as scrotum on a bottle rocket. dont know how cheap they are though

i could swing $2,500 easy , i have an 91' LSC with the mustang 5.0, heavy car though. factory horse ratings are 235hp 300tq, but has 180,000 miles with about 65k on the rebuild. Plus the lincoln has trouble burning out but thats my college car. there is a late seveenties fox body i could get for $100 but its beat, my lincoln looks good compared to that thing

I would have to agree with the mustang idea. Go for an '88 or later since it comes with the mass air and makes a little more hp. I had a '91 that I bought new and took it to germany when I was in the Army. The only things I did to it were: remove air baffle, insert K&N (10-12hp), flowmasters (approx 12-17hp) and upgraded the ignition (jacobs ignition). I could drop into fourth at 120 and walk away from the carrera 2's. I could also stay with the 5 series BMW's that were limited to 159, they couldn't lose me and I coudn't lose them. The car was an absolute blast!!

I don't think that I would mess with the IROC at all. If it's everything you say it is..........look at what the early seventies muscle cars are going for, keep it stock and you could be on the next Barrett/Jackson auto auction! :wink:

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Hallo iroc-z89,


schau doch mal hier zum Thema Zubehör für US Cars (Anzeige)? Eventuell gibt es dort etwas Passendes.

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Another thing about the Mustang. For performance, the LX notch-back coupe is actually preferable to the GT. It's a little more spartan, but because of this, it's lighter, no doubt less expensive - but still available with 5.0 power. Also the LX coupe is more ridgid than the hatchback GT body.

yeah im gettin hit with billz left and right, im expecting to go broke within the next two weeks,ill have cash again this summer, driving school, insurance, alternator, interior for the lincoln, prom, eye glasses and my girl. Plus my paychecks just got cut into a 1/3. gotta wait till i graduate to be making enuff to support anything. ill create a site with my car in it for u guys

  • 3 Wochen später...

hey, im working on that 350 as stated above, is there anyway that i can find out the cam information ie. lift, duration......is there a stamp # and where is the stamp# on a cylinder head and on the block itself

My advice is to get a technical manual, like Chilton's or Hayne's. Better yet, one from GM themselves.

The out of print GM shop manuals are expensive as hell. A reprint of a 1989 Camaro shop manual is $146, owner's manual is $10. http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/TipsAdvice/OwnerServiceManuals.html

Although, if I wanted to find one used, the first place I'd look is Hemming's Motor News - " the bible of the auto enthusiest hobby".

  • 2 Wochen später...

hey if anyone on here is technical please respond, as stated above i have a 1989 Chevy Camaro Iroc, as of last week it refused to start, i was told by three ASE Certified Mechanics to replace the Ignition Control Module, and so I did. I replaced everything in the original stock order, cleaned the bosch 4 plugs which are brand new and even sprayed starting fluid to see if she would turn over. I checked the spark wires for ignition and they spark, I also checked the fuel injectors and they are also recieving power.

Fuel pressure is sitting a 10psi with the fuel pump off and 40psi with it on.

When the car is cranked all the pulleys turn and there is a sucking noise coming from the intake manifold which should be normal. I am absolutely broke as my paychecks are only enough to pay my insurance & gas right now. What I was quoted is half of what I am paying. If anyone has any idea what is wrong please indicate what i should check.

so wait.. to clear things up: your positive your getting spark and fuel in the cylinder.

im guessing there could be a few stupid things that went wrong.... anything happen before it wouldnt start? and it is turning over correct?

got it. Cap, rotor, pick up coil, spark plug wires reversed, timing was retarded. "Variable timing". Dirty fuel filter on apparently ten year old gas. Rust in the exhaust which was shot out upon being powered up and everything fixed. I might need new cats......

This camaro is "pure stock" and somewhat rare.

got it. Cap, rotor, pick up coil, spark plug wires reversed, timing was retarded. "Variable timing". Dirty fuel filter on apparently ten year old gas. Rust in the exhaust which was shot out upon being powered up and everything fixed. I might need new cats......

Ahhh, if only "pure stock" was really as good as it sounds. But a lot of the time it just means the old OEM stuff is out of tune or ready to bust. Glad you got it all fixed - Hope it didn't make you too broke.

Save the 350 for something else, like a sleeper Caprice. :wink:

you said you cleaned the Bosch +4 plugs? you cannot clean platinum plugs without damaging them. I'd try new plugs. How are your wires? Are your injectors clean? Is the timing right?

i cleaned the plugs with a cloth soaked in gas and i didn't apply any pressure, just wrapped the plug and pulled it out, Wires are original and are starting to arc im gonna pick up some Race wire later, the ignition timing was off by a whole gear tooth. Injectors are fine. All of it is being cleaned up Saturday morning,


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